walking
guided
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COMING TO PROVENCE
BY AIR
The Airports - MARSEILLE - NICE - AVIGNON - NIMES - PARIS - LYON - GENEVA - BARCELONA - MILANO -
BY TRAIN -TGV-
AVIGNON - 30 min from AIX-MARSEILLE - 2h30 from PARIS - 3hrs from NICE - ------------- - 3hrs from GENEVA - 4hrs from BRUSSELS -
AIX EN PROVENCE & MARSEILLE - 30 min from AVIGNON - 2h30 from NICE - 3hrs from PARIS -
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BY CAR
AVIGNON - 2h45 from NICE - 4hrs from GENEVA - 7hrs from PARIS - 10hrs from BRUSSELS -
AIX EN PROVENCE & MARSEILLE - 1hrs from AVIGNON - 2hrs from NICE - 7h45 from PARIS -
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Alpilles
Litterally meaning “little Alps”, the Alpilles chain does not exceed 500m (1650ft) in height and is only 25km in length. Though what it lacks in height is easily compensated by the beauty of its surroundings. Van Gogh, attracted by the countryside, spent more than a year in the town of St. Rémy, at the foot of the Alpilles. He saw in it what attracts many of today’s visitors: the jagged lines of the limestone ridge, the lone cypress tree bent by the Mistral winds in an open field, the olive groves highlighted by the intense Provençal sun.
As you’re walking along the easy and rolling ridge trail, perched above the valley below, the Medieval village of Les Baux comes into view. Classed as “one of the most beautiful villages in France”, Les Baux is at its most beautiful seen from the walking trail, as it would have been seen in its Medieval light. You then descend into the winding village streets, and visit the ruins of the fort, from where you can admire the panorama.
Don’t forget to visit Saint Paul de Mausole, the former Romanesque monastery – now a mental institution – where Van Gogh was interned for over a year. Just a stone’s throw away is Glanum, a Roman village unearthed around the outskirts of St. Rémy.
Calanques
From Marseille to Cassis, over a stretch of 20km, the Calanques are a set of jagged limestone inlets carved out along the coast. With each hidden inlet you’ll discover the breathtaking waters, intensely turquoise, caressing the white limestone cliffs that sink into the sea.
Sailboats vie for position in the inlets, sun worshippers lie in the quiet coves, kids jump into the waters and swim back to shore.
Though you can explore the calanques by boat, the best way to discover the region is by foot: where in between each calanque you’ll be enchanted by the strong fragrance of pine needles and aromatic herbs baking under the Provençal sun. When in Marseille make sure to try Bouillabaisse, the regional specialty made of slow cooked fresh fish in a broth,served as a feast.
Camargue
Covering most of the delta of the Rhone, the Camargue regional park is a 75,000 hectare (185,000 acre) marshland paradise, where tens of thousands of pink flamingos fly gracefully over bulls and pure white horses. This is preserved nature as far as the eye can see; tiny roads and tracks allowing you to explore the park by foot, by horse, or by bike, and observe over 350 species of birds that come to reproduce and nest in the park.
The northern boundary of the Camargue is the city of Arles, with its rich and well-conserved Roman history. Come sit in one of the quiet cafés in town, visit the coliseum, and explore the places frequented and painted by Van Gogh. On the sea is the town of Saintes Maries de la Mer, with its white homes, beautiful beaches, and strong gipsy influence.
Canyon du Verdon
The deepest canyon in Europe, the vertiginous cliffs of the Verdon canyon rise as high as 700m (2300ft) above the river below. This majestic site is a paradise for sports of all kind: hiking along the narrow canyon paths, rock climbing, kayaking, canyoneering... The river flows into lake Sainte-Croix, where on a canoe you can paddle in quiet contemplation of the beauty of your surroundings.
The canyon is the natural border between the department of the Alpes de Haute Provence to the North and the Var to the South. To the West are the immense Valensole plains, in the summer months a sea of lavender stretching out into the horizon.
At the entrance of the canyon is the town of Moustiers Sainte Marie, classed as one of the “most beautiful villages in France”, and perched high above the waters. Its narrow streets invite you to come examine the fine pottery made in the village, renowned the world over.
Cevennes
The Cévennes mountains, a national park created in 1970, are part of the larger Massif Central mountains. Sparsely populated, the soft rolling hills of the Cévennes are set among deep valleys, and high extensive limestone plateaus.
Stay in one of the local“gites” (rural bed and breakfasts), in tiny villages composed of homes made from local rock and slate roofs, and eat hearty and local specialties made of cheeses and meats. Walk some of the 1800km of marked footpaths in the region, or retrace the steps of the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, who walked through the Cévennes accompanied by his donkey.
In the Cévennes you can watch groups of vultures circle gracefully above jagged cliffs, pick chestnuts and roast them over an open fire, or visit some of the important sites linked to the Huguenots.
Cote d'azur
Who hasn’t dreamed of visiting the Côte D’Azur, the celebrated French Riviera that has attracted the rich and famous for decades. From the town of St. Tropez, westward to the Italian border, the Côte D’azur is a blend of long stretches of beaches and chic towns such as Cannes, Menton and Monaco.
The climate is beautiful year round, benefiting from mild winters and a cool sea breeze in the summer. In towns palms and orange trees are planted in front of homes laced with deep purple Bougainvillea, while brilliant yellow mimosa stand alongside towering Eucalyptus, creating a fine perfume in the air.
In the back country, pushed up against the coastline, the cliffs rise dramatically, and encase villages such as Eze, Saint Agnès, and Peille. Almost within an arm’s reach of the Mediterannean, these villages are perched defiantly in the sky, linked by beautiful trails that wind upwards from the shore.
Dentelles de Montmirail
“Dentelles” literally means lacework, and makes reference to this jagged “lacework” of mountains set beside the Rhone Valley. It’s probably more appropriate though to extract the word “dent” from Dentelles, meaning tooth, as the chain of mountains appears to be three sets of limestone teeth, soaring vertically into the sky. However you wish to interpret “Dentelles”, the region is a playground for walking, mountain biking, and for rock climbing. From the “chambre du Turc” – the limestone chamber (or tooth cavity!) leading to the very summit – a once-in-a-lifetime panorama opens up.
To celebrate your ascension, you need only descend through the old vineyards, through a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets, and to the main square of the town of Gigondas – where you can try a glass of its world renowned red. Blends of grenache, shiraz, mourvèdre and cinsault make up the deep and spicy reds in the AOC Gigondas wines.
Esterel
Situated along the French Riviera, in between the towns of Saint Raphael and Mandelieu, the Esterel mountains jut out sheer from the sea. So jagged is the vibrant red volcanic rock that even here, along the French Riviera, no village has ever been founded as its base. It is a land of steep cliffs with sharp contours, tiny inlets shaded by parasol pines, thousands of little blood-red islands dotting the immense, indigo Mediterranean.
Though so close to the chic and touristy towns of Saint Raphael or Cannes, the Esterel range is untamed wilderness at its purest, covered in wild lavender, thyme, rosemary, sparse cork trees and maritime pines. A great network of walking paths are carved into the massif, anywhere from coastline trails to the summit of the range – Mont Vinaigre – perched 614m (2000ft) above the sea.
Haut Var
With rolling hills and dense forests, the Haut Var is a popular region to visit, the shape of its landscape and small country roads lending particularly well to cycle-touring. Thanks to an exceptional quality if the region’s clay, the Haut Var’s tradition of fine pottery is centuries old.
The villages of Cotignac, Entrecasteaux and Saint-Antonin are all rich in Medieval history and monuments. Thoronet abbey, a beautifully sober 12th century Cistercian monastery, is Provençal Romanesque architecture at its finest and best preserved.
Don’t forget to visit the village of Aups and its truffle market, where groups of men huddle inconspicuously around their “black diamonds”, selling them at upwards of 500 Euros a pound.
Iles d'Hyeres
The Iles D’or – or Golden Islands – set just off the coast of the French Riviera, offer an untamed wilderness just a short ferry ride from the coastline. This is the sunniest and southernmost part of France, offering a year-round beautiful climate, with mild winters and a sea breeze to cool the hot summer sun. The red rocks of the islands glisten in the sun, casting a golden light toward the mainland, an invitation to come and explore.
Take a walk on Port Cros, the National Park, where the well-marked trails lead you from quiet cove to quiet cove, among giant cork oaks and tree heather, all seemingly disproportionate in size. The island of Porquerolles, with its tiny town of 300 inhabitants, seems unchanged since it was built in the 19th century. Play a game of pétanque in the main square, rent a bike and tour around the island, or tan on the Plage D’Argent, with its pure silvery sands. On the mainland you can walk along the celebrated coastline path, and why not all the way into St. Tropez?
Luberon
The Luberon mountains, the setting for the famous Peter Mayle novels, have much to offer to the active visitor: walking trails and hidden country roads that link high-perched Medieval villages, each worth exploring in length. Among them: Lacoste and the chateau of the Marquis de Sade, Lourmarin and its quaint cafés, Mérindol and its rich and tainted religious history, or even the hidden hamlets of Sivergues and Auribeau...
For a relatively small mountain range – 60km in length, culminating at 1125m/3700ft – the varieties in landscape are phenomenal: the spectacular cliffs of the deeply encased and humid Aiguebrun valley, the 3000 year-old Buoux fort perched vertiginously over a 500ft sheer drop, the tight limestone Régalon gorge, the vast plateaus of lavender and truffle oak plantations, the high and exposed grassy ridges leading to the rounded summit, the deep and penetrating greens of the cedar forest.
Massif des Maures
Situated just behind the coastline in the department of the Var, the Massif des Maures is a granite-based range in an otherwise limestone Provence. The mica in its reddish rocks glistens in the ever-present Provençal sun, creating a golden aura. The range is covered by “maquis”: a scrub land composed of aromatic herbs, heather, cistus, scrub oak, and sparse aleppo pine. The walking paths are numerous and picturesque.
The town of Collobrières, “capital” of the Maures, has always been known for its production of chestnuts and cork. Under the shade of a plane tree, with a chestnut and cognac ice cream in hand, you can watch the old villagers playing pétanque by the Réal Collobrier river. It is a timeless village, protected from the modernization of the French Riviera, only a short drive away.
Don’t forget to visit the impressive Chartreuse de la Verne monastery just outside of Collobrières – a jewel of 12th century architecture.
Montagne de Lure
At 1827m in altitude, the Montagne de Lure is part of the southernmost pre-Alps, its bare limestone summit a playground for numerous species, such as chamois and vultures. Far from the tourist regions of Provence farther to the south, the region of the Lure is dotted with authentic perched villages and welcoming “gîtes”. The plateaus surrounding the mountain are covered in pastures and lavender fields, the local “Banon” goat cheese a pure delight.
The slopes of the mountain are covered with picturesque walking paths, a good mix of wide forestry tracks in the valleys, and narrow, seldom-used trails through the juniper bushes higher in altitude.
Lure is the region of Jean Giono, a famous French writer who used the mountains as a backdrop for many of his novels.
Monts de Vaucluse
Two of the most “postcarded” images of Provence – the village of Gordes and the 12th century Sénanque Abbey (the one always shown with the lavender field in front...) are located in this region. They’re connected by a beautiful walking trail. Not far away is the village of Roussillon, set beside a now abandoned ochre quarry; the deep coloured pigments from the quarry were used to paint the homes of the village, whose façades now shine in different hues of yellow, orange, and red, every narrow street bursting in colour.
Approaching the extensive plateau of the Monts de Vaucluse, you’ve left the well-trodden tourist path. Here, the vast thyme-drenched fields and oak forests dominate, and you can be alone with nature. On the Northern slopes of the Monts de Vaucluse you can descend to a number of beautiful, perched medieval villages – such as Vénasque or Méthamis – and in the outlying countryside admire a land rich with cherry orchards and muscat grape vineyards.
Mercantour
Much of it bordering Italy, The Mercantour National Park is one of 9 national parks in France. Its 28 perched mountain villages, authentic and welcoming, are surrounded by untamed mountain slopes. Listen to marmots whistle fiercely to warn each other of the presence of a golden eagle, and observe chamois and ibex climbing to the rockiest perches to ensure their safety. Follow the tracks of the elusive wolf, recently returned to France after a 50 year absence.
From Mediterranean oak to mountain pine, from aromatic herbs to Edelweiss, you can discover a great variety and number of plant species along some 800km of marked paths. Embark on a guided walk through the “Vallée des Merveilles”, where the of 3500 year-old rock engravings offer clues to how prehistoric populations lived and survived in the area.
Sainte Baume
The Sainte Baume is a rocky bar, 12km in length, and culminates at over 1000m in altitude. Its two slopes are quite different in aspect: to the north, the abrupt slope descends to a shady, cool and humid forest, pleasant all year round; to the south, the gradual limestone slopes shine a bright white under the hot sun, the grounds covered by aromatic herbs and shrubs. There are many walking trails in and around the Sainte Baume.
The villages at the foot of the mountain are rich in culture and history: Gémenos and its Cistercian abbey, Mazaugues and its homes of character, the old village of Nans and the ruins of its feudal castle, and Saint-Maximin, with its Basilica – considered one of the finest gothic buildings of Provence – said to contain the remains of Saint Mary Madeleine.
Sainte Victoire
Hovering majestically over the town of Aix-en-Provence, the Sainte-Victoire mountain bares its razor sharp cliffs that plunge dramatically to the south, while its slopes descend gradually to the north. Many paths lead to the summit, from where the view is spectacular.
The impressionist artist Paul Cézanne, a native of Aix-en-Provence, was so obsessed by the Sainte-Victoire that he painted and repainted it hundreds of times over, trying to understand its every shade and contour.
Take the time to explore Aix-en-Provence, with its famed fountains and its roads shaded by beautiful plane trees, the scene even more spectacular during the weekly market. Its cafés and restaurants are bustling with university students and travellers, the surrounding countryside blanketed by olive orchards and vines.
Mont Ventoux
Mont Ventoux, at 1912m (6300ft), is perched high above Provence; from the summit its 360° panorama, made clear and far-reaching by the howling Mistral wind, is nothing short of awe-inspiring: looking to the south the Rhone River, snaking its way through the vine-covered plains and into the Mediterranean Sea; and to the north the entire chain of the snow-peaked French Alps, including Mont Blanc.
From its base laden with Mediterranean vegetation, to its summit sprinkled with Alpine flowers, Mont Ventoux offers a great diversity of flora and fauna. Its slopes are covered with dozens of exceptional walking trails, for all levels of fitness, while the beautifully paved roads to the summit invite you to test your legs like the best riders of the Tour de France, who have scaled the mythical mountain 11 times. On the northern slopes of Ventoux, deep in the Toulourenc valley, you can visit tiny villages and perched Romanesque chapels, all far from the main tourist areas.
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Hiking and Biking Tour Operator - N° licence : Li 084 03 0005 - A.P.S Member- info@walkinnprovence.com